Starfish Asian Coastal Cuisine

Starfish Asian Coastal Cuisine

Upon entering Starfish - the latest venture for local Laguna Beach resident and business owner, Nancy Wilhelm - I zone out and escape from busy Pacific Coast Highway where the cacophony of street cars buzz in my brain and the dusty funk of engine exhaust wafts through my nostrils. As I’m escorted past the hostess cubicle to my table, I find myself engulfed in a warm Shangri la and instantly my perception shifts from frenzied to peaceful-exotic as I anticipate the upcoming continental feast.

For her encore Nancy has succeeded in creating another alluring dining establishment with Starfish Asian Coastal Cuisine. Le Cordon Bleu graduate Chef Jarvis Yuan - a native San Franciscan reared by Taiwanese parents - is credited for confidently expediting dishes with his talented kitchen staff. Having spent many days of his childhood hanging out in his family’s many restaurants, Chef Jarvis confidently transports flavors from Southeast Asia to south Laguna Beach.

The setting of avant garde Asian inspired décor: thick padded-jade colored banquettes, shiny black lacquer furniture and Asian antiques, rekindles my memory of the wonderful dining establishments I visited in Southeast Asia. For an instant I consider a surreptitious pinch to my arm. Am I merely just minutes away from my home? Immediately I notice the pretty emerald colored glass tiles glistening from the horseshoe shaped bar where attractive mixologists cater to thirsty and equally attractive bar patrons. I gently shake the marbles in my dome grounding myself back to reality. A little voice in my brain confirms that I am in Laguna Beach and advises me to sit back against the comfy banquette and enjoy the culinary adventure.

Ahi poke, Korean style tacos, Vietnamese pho, garlic noodles and whole Asian style fish are merely a sampling of the many dishes I have enjoyed at Starfish. And that does not include the fabulous cocktails and dessert. I’m not quite sure where to begin!

Sichuan Yu Sang small Japanese eggplant is slow braised to tender perfection with house made sambal – Asian spicy chili sauce. I could have devoured this whole side dish alone had I not been forced to share with my dining comrades. A slow braising method reveals the rich deep purple hue of the eggplant and the sweet-salty and spicy combo triggered my greedy craving for more!

Starfish poke - small chunks of yellow fin tuna, crunchy pine nuts, micro shiso and tobiko caviar - is tossed with a hint of truffle oil and served with a side of taro chips. Traditional sesame oil does not over power this dish and the woodsy truffle oil blended with aromatic tiny shiso leaves is a nice gourmet touch.

The highlight of my dining experience at Starfish was the “fish of the day.” My dining group and I decided on the wok braised method. After all, woks are essential cookware in an Asian kitchen – it would have been sacrilegious not to eat wok fried fish. Choy sum (inner core of bok choy) cabbage, sweet Thai basil, black bean sauce, bits of sweet garlic and bright red Thai chilis are generously ladled over a whole slightly-crispy fish. In an interesting, non-traditional presentation, the fish seemed to “stand on its own” as it was methodically placed in a sculptured u-shape form on the plate. One of the servers offered to “filet” the fish and, needless-to-say, the server could use a little more experience filleting whole fish. But the flavor was lovely and I would not hesitate to order this dish upon my next visit to Starfish.

My first experience with the garlic noodles left me feeling less than satisfied due to the oil which had coagulated at the roof of my palate. Alas, never give up…every restaurant deserves another chance. Upon my third trip to Starfish, I ordered the wild mushroom garlic noodles. Third time was a charm as these noodles were prepared well with a blend of three types of exotic mushrooms, sweet basil and delicate noodles. One taste confirmed the over- dressing of oil problem had been solved although my dining partner complained that the ratio of noodles to veggies seemed a bit out of balance – he would have liked more veggies in the over abundant noodle mound.

I would gladly visit Sarfish solely to drink the specialty cocktails. A groovy libation is the Citrus Brynner made with Hangar One Citron Vodka, elder flower liqueur, white wine, grapefruit bitters and lemongrass. As I sip my refreshing aperitif, I remind myself of the medicinal benefit of lemongrass being a gentle degestivo and I take root looking forward to my upcoming dessert.

Those in the know appreciate my love for all things coconut – especially coconut cuisine! Therefore, at the conclusion of my savory meal it was imperative that I had my very own order of coconut panna cotta. To my delight I was served an over-sized portion of Bavarian cream layered with essence of exotic passion fruit. Although the consistency was a bit gelatinous, the flavors and creativity of this dessert was wonderful. I closed my eyes and savored each layer separately. As I enjoyed each individual flavor again I was reminded that Nancy, along with Chef Jarvis, had succeeded in transporting me – even for a brief repast – through the tastes, sights and smells of Asia at Starfish. Bravo!


Open Daily 4:00p.m.
Spirits, Beer & Wine

What the heck...Fish & Beer?!?

Yes-sir-ee, ya got that right, ‘fish and beer’! “HOUSE OF BIGFISH & ICE COLD BEER” lives up to their name…big, plastic fish on the walls surrounded by fish netting, big fish fillets on your plate and a menu of fifty beers (yep, guys and gals...50) to choose from!

Located on the second floor (former site of the Aegean Café) in a shopping center within walking distance from downtown Laguna, Chris Keller, et al., (“K’ya” and “Roof Top Bar” also in Laguna Beach) has introduced a new type of restaurant to our sweet little town which combines wonderful seafood and a plethora of great beers.

With views of the ocean, a full bar, five flat screen televisions showcasing various sports from surfing to mixed martial arts, and a separate…albeit enclosed, dining patio, I would say the ambiance of this dining establishment is “baja style” and a cool place to hang out with your pals. I expected Jimmy Buffet to stroll in at any moment and settle himself among the crowded room of happy patrons who range between the ages of the early 20’s to mid-late 60’s. House of Bigfish & Ice Cold Beer is a great meeting place with excellent energy everywhere. Folks, I do not recommend dining at Bigfish if you are looking for a quiet, romantic setting since the noise level can get fairly loud. For a quieter experience reserve or suggest a spot in their separate dining patio.

I have had the pleasure of dining at Bigfish & Ice Cold Beer on several occasions and found the food very good and the service to be mostly inconsistent with my dining partner telling me he believed the service “sucked” (omitting explitive!) on one particular evening! In defense of the restaurant, they are recently opened therefore working out the “service kinks” is still in the making.

The first time I dined at Bigfish my waitress was the lovely Natalia, a Laguna local with a wonderful smile and gracious disposition making my experience even better! Although the restaurant is still in the infancy state Natalia managed to do a fantastic job serving us in a timely manner. My next couple of visits left me feeling as if the service was somewhat off. I must admit the service one particular evening was an utter disaster since I was unfortunate to have a waitress who must have sniffed way too much glue (she was a ding bat and screwed up all of our simple orders). Alas, I reminded myself that is why it is not a good idea to review newly opened restaurants.

Allow me to discuss food…for all of you herring lovers Bigfish has a delicious “Pickled Herring”on the menu and I found that to be a pleasant surprise since I have yet to find a restaurant that offers herring much less the picked version. My appetizer (a large portion) was tender chunks of lightly pickled herring with small diced sweet onions which made for a nice flavor balance.

My hubby and I decided the “Steamed Clams” were the best we have ever tasted! They were served in a huge bowl with an over abundance of baby clams which nestled in a gently spiced tomato-garlic and fresh herbed broth. We used our garlic bread for dipping and they were just delicious!

I very much enjoyed an order of “Hamachi Poke” which was presented as a mound of small cubed yellowtail in a sweet-soy base with threads of cabbage, seaweed and crispy chips. Although the fish was very tasty I must say there was not enough of it. I found my amount of Hamachi to be very minimal and would have been much happier with another spoonful.

Bigfish has eight different types of fish to choose from with preparation and sauce options along with “side fish toppings” for an extra buck. My entre was the grilled “Opakapaka”. For those in the know, I love my spice and for folks, who also enjoy an extra “bite” of spice, order your fish fillet blackened instead of Cajun style. The blackened spices are pressed into the fish fillet and the effect is pretty hot on your tongue bumping up the scoville units leaving you to beg for an ice beer to cool down your pie hole! In addition, you also get a choice of two sides from Cajun rice, grilled vegetables, home-style potatoes and coleslaw. The grilled vegetables are a blend of bell peppers, onions, carrots, zucchini and teeny tiny cauliflowerettes; they are very well prepared and tasty.

For patrons with small appetites Bigfish offers small plates for $5 each which are “irresistible to your wallet”. If fish does not sound appetizing, how about a “Hot Sausage Sandwich”, “Steak Bites” or “Shrimp Scampi Pasta” (guys, so “shrimp” is seafood, please do not discount the pasta aspect of that dish with garlic butter, tomato and Parmesan cheese) to satisfy all the non-pescetarians out there? Heck, you may even be in the mood for “Huevos Rancheros”…the choices are endless. I have yet to try some but rumor has it the “Shrimp Cocktail” tasted mushy as if it were frozen way too long.

To end a lively evening filled with people watching, a full bar, high energy and well prepared food have one of the five desserts on the menu. Actually, I guess I should count six desserts but the sixth is not for under age drinkers…“adults only” when ordering this dessert. The “Raspberry Beer Float with Chocolate Ice Cream ($6) has Lindemans Framboise Lambic…a berry flavored liquor. Yummy, must try it next time!

Due to the incredibly reasonable prices I highly recommend dining at “House of Bigfish & Ice Cold Beer”. Go and enjoy well prepared food, an ice cold “Organic Pinkus Heffeweiazen”, “Dopplebock” or a “Redhook Mud Slinger”, check out the scene or wait for the live entertainment after hours. Give them some more time to work out the service kinks and you will have a grand ol’time.

Cheers!

Dinner 4:30-10:30p.m.
Happy Hour: Mon-Fri 4:30-5:30p.m.

$GREAT$ Price Point

Little Saigon Seafood Feast

If you're craving fresh seafood and have a chance to drive to Westminster you must try "Sea Food Cove Chinese Restaurant"! The restaurant (formerly Dragon Phoenix) is adjacent to the Asian Garden Mall, located upstairs in a strip mall in the heart of the Vietnamese community and shares a parking lot with the infamous live seafood grocery store,"A Dong Market" (come now ladies, no giggling). Once you exit the 405 freeway and head towards Bolsa Avenue and Brookhurst Street, you'll feel as if you have arrived in Saigon City, Vietnam (less the hundreds of scooters on the streets). No kidding.

Entering the restaurant can be a challenge for those who try to avoid stairs since a spiral staircase greets you at the door along with a counter where a server mixes up fresh juices of coconut (succulant slices of fresh coconut meat included in your juice...and my favorite), watermelon, orange, and tasty Ca Phe Sua Da the traditional Vietnamese iced coffee. Once at the top of the stairs, a beautiful crystal chandelier beacons you into a world of exquisite smells...keep treking, the food and experience is worth the stair hike. For the cardio challenged, there is an elevator to wisk you to dinner should you have trouble with the staircase. The wait is anywhere from a couple of minutes to 20 minutes depending on the time you arrive. My party of 3 walked right in and we were seated immediately.

The smorgasbord of food included: Thai Style Hot & Sour Soup w/Coconut Milk and Shrimp; House Special Lobster; Shrimp & String Bean w/Garlic Sauce; Hot & Sour Fried Whole Fish; Sauteed Pea Sprouts w/Garlic (love the golden brown garlic!!); traditional Steamed White Rice and TsingTao Chinese Beers.

My Thai Style Hot & Sour Soup was just exquisite with flavors that teased my tongue! The soup was served steaming hot family style and had large pink succulant shrimp floating in a perfect combination of lemon grass, coconut milk, fresh jalapeno pepper slices and fresh thai basil. Very exotic and delicious! I have leftovers for my lunch today...yeah!

Should you order the House Special Lobster, you have your choice of live lobsters in a tank to pick from (small lobsters are sweeter and more tender). Once chosen, the lobster is coated with cornstarch for a light, crisp coating then hot wok fried in vegetable oil with fresh garlic, jalapeno peppers and a dash of sesame oil. I never lick my fingers but this dish had me tossing my dining manners out the door (sorry Emily Post) and I licked my fingers till I could lick no more! The lobster was fit for a king and, shall I say, finger licking good!

Flounder was the fish for our Hot & Sour Fried Whole Fish. The fresh whole fish was quick sauteed in hot oil creating a lovely, crispy skin and laddled with fresh sliced red & green jalapeno peppers then topped off with a thin red sauce. You will find that fresh sliced peppers are used in many of the dishes at Sea Food Cove so if your palette is sensitive to capsaicin and high scoville units you may want to avoid eating the peppers (oh baby...I love it HOT!). Although the fish is not described as sweet, I tasted a hint of sweetness making a perfect combination with the spicey peppers.

I don't want to keep anyone from eating sauteed pea sprouts but they kind of resemble freshly mowed grass...and, I love them!! Usually they're just steamed with a simple flavor but at Sea Food Cove they offer them lightly sauteed with garlic chips. Every tendril of beautiful bright green pea sprout is seriously scrumptious!

There's no way I can tell you how the Shrimp and String Beans dish was since the shrimp arrived at our table way too late and my dining party was stuffed to the gills (imagine) unable to eat one more bite. Based on the appearance and aromatic scent of the shrimp dish and how the other dishes tasted, I'm sure they'll be fabulous as leftovers.

For the food bon vivant challenged who don't frequent Vietnamese eateries, a typical favorite dessert is Tapioca Soup served hot (and, yes, another favorite dessert of mine). I also discovered Sea Food Cove makes their tapioca soup with tapioca, duh...obviously, fresh seaweed, sugared water and fresh green beans. And, yes, I said, "green beans" which are pulverized to create a broth for the soup base. The soup was lightly sweetened and had a nice creamy consistency...I savored every drop of my hot dessert soup while my two dining guests passed their portions to me (must kick up the fat burning mode on my cardio machine). My tapioca soup was ambrosial...more, I want more!!.

And, at times when I'm craving veggie and vegan food I can also order several of the many veggie dishes on the menu which include tofu and buckwheat noodles. I counted 9 different veggie dishes on the menu.

Please don't hesitate to try Sea Food Cove Chinese Restaurant. The costs of the live lobster was only $10.99 per lb. and everything else on the menu is very reasonably priced. They have my vote of excellence!!