Just relaxing on an islet in the Caribbean

Friday, December 30, 2011

Coffee, Tea and Tulips

As I entered the small restaurant, the chef gazed intently at me from behind his kitchen counter. Affectionately known as the “Moody Chef”, he can throw down against any expert pastry maker. The clotted cream and scones are handmade daily by this cantankerous culinarian. She is a dark-haired, classic beauty who pours over 15 types of tea and runs the front of the house. With the congeniality of a doting mistress and the contrasting command presence of a Marine Corps Drill Instructor, my hostess had me feeling instantly at ease. Together, this ying-yang duo own and operate Coffee, Tea and Tulips, a shabby-chic tea parlor and petite bistro in Mission Viejo.

I was promptly seated in a comfy corner of the restaurant with a full view of the buzzing bistro. The hot teapot of Midnight in Paris tea bellowed steamy fumes of ginger, crème de coconut and vanilla flavors triggering endorphins and similar feel good chemicals in my brain. At Chef’s Michael’s recommendation, I ordered the freshly made orange scone with sides of clotted cream and raspberry imported jam. My scone was light and crispy on the outside and warm and tender on the inside - similar to a southern style biscuit. Moody Chef’s ability to whip up a mean scone and equally rich and thick clotted cream caught me off guard! How could an obviously brash personality create such a delicate and delicious scone? After all, his nickname was the “Moody Chef”.

Several years ago, Chef Michael Samawi left his corporate job and with his wife Lina (also hostess and waitress), once a missionary travelling the globe, opened Coffee, Tea and Tulips offering full tea service and internationally inspired dishes. “Tea and scones before any meal” is Chef Michael’s motto. Chef Michael and Lina’s concept is to cook healthy, homemade and sustainable food items serving the dishes “fast food” style – in a timely manner.

The charming parlor and bistro is nestled between an arts and crafts store and bowling alley in the confines of a large commercial shopping center. The setting is “country cottage” - a dried flower wreath and small pictures hang on walls, dining chairs sport comfy back pillows and a rustic armoire filled with tchotchkes rests against one corner of the restaurant. Each table setting is unique and a menu, as thick as a coffee table book, graces each place setting. Recipes are inspired by Lina and Chef Michael’s Middle Eastern heritage with many options from which to choose. Sandwiches are made with artisan bread and tortilla wraps are meticulously rolled and stuffed with crisp ingredients. The Tomato Bisque is thick, rich and velvety and served with a topping of big crunchy croutons.

My tapas of sliced hard boiled eggs, bright red Roma tomatoes and a hearty anchovy filet was drizzled with quality extra virgin olive oil then sprinkled with finely minced black olives. The briny flavor of the anchovy filet and salty black olives are the perfect spice for the otherwise bland tomato and plain boiled egg.

Ninety-five percent of the menu is vegetarian with many vegan alternatives available. The Roasted Vegetable Sandwich, a favorite of mine, is over-stuffed with an abundance of roasted veggies and pungent blue cheese. Lina’s Organic Spinach salad is fresh and filling. A towering pile of organic spinach, thick avocado slices and bacon pieces along with chunks of white skinless-boneless chicken breast overflow on my plate. The spinach salad is very good and a nice combination of lean protein, complex carbohydrates and healthy essential fatty acids.

Despite a busy “walk-in” lunch crowd, Lina managed to maintain a controlled calmness while taking precious time to greet each patron individually. In spite of Moody Chef’s intense demeanor and apparent nonchalant attitude, it is evident by his cuisine Chef Michael has a docile soul with a passion for cooking. Along with Lina and her heart for service, Coffee, Tea and Tulips will be recognized as a dining haven where guests may enjoy traditional tea service and healthy meals in the comfort of a warm, inviting setting.

Cheers!

Coffee, Tea & Tulips on Urbanspoon
Open daily - except Monday
Tuesday – Saturday: 9 a.m. – 3 p.m. Sunday: 9 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Serving breakfast and lunch

www.mycoffeeteaandtulips.com

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Broadway by Amar Santana

Years ago, I recall walking into one of the trendiest dining spots in downtown Laguna Beach – fondly and formerly known as “Michael Kang’s 5’0” restaurant. Upon entering the establishment a partition wall blocked my view of the dining room. A small waiting area with hostess stand and several chairs were in the foyer for patient patrons waiting to enjoy the flavors of Asian fusion style cuisine. In the dining area, was a wall painted with head shots of local loyal Laguna residents…I recognized a few faces. A fond memory for me was the “power” table in the back corner where I celebrated my 25th birthday with a gregarious group of my gal pals while we enjoyed a bottle of Dom Perignon champagne that had been sent over to my table by the gracious Donald Bren himself.

Those days when a painted wall of local faces gazed upon dining customers and where power tables were comfortably tucked in the corner are long gone. Currently, in 5’0’s stead is Broadway by Amar Santana. Of course, as is expected with a new restaurant and the personal style the owners want to convey, Broadway’s interior has experienced a major transformation - an open room with high beams and several dining areas. Corresponding with the name “Broadway”, the atmosphere conveys a lively New York scene with visuals and Broadway music to match the ambiance. An open kitchen (with a dining counter and six seats) allows patrons to witness first hand intense energy from the ebb and flow of Chef Amar as he commands with a controlled yet gentle manner his talented staff. The bar area hustles with busy mixologists blending special cocktails and customers who prefer a view of the flat screen television. Broadway musical tunes are heard through the speakers blending into the buzz of the dining crowd.

Ex-CIA graduate (Culinary Institute of America @ Hyde Park) and former Executive Chef at Charlie Palmer in South Coast, Amar Santana is no newbie to the restaurant scene. His daring creativity and deep conviction to perfection are apparent. Chef Amar is a new force to be reckoned with in the competitive culinary arena of Laguna Beach with the city’s many wonderful restaurants.
Mayan Eyes blends Corazon Blanco tequila, Xtabentun (an anise liqueur from Mexico), fresh squeezed citrus juices with herbaceous cilantro and jalapeno slices. Not too thick with a gentle spice, this cocktail is one of my favorites! The licorice flavor along with cilantro and spicy pepper slices is almost comforting. On this particular evening, I decided against ordering another drink since Mike McConnell, our waiter who also possesses a vast knowledge of wines, offered me a glass of pinot noir (I had hit my two drink maximum). A full bar with an extensive wine list and beers is available.

I always appreciate the efforts of a Chef who puts serious forethought into the amuse-bouche (bite size portions of hors d’oeuvre). Chef Amar composed an amuse-bouche of Ahi tuna in crème fraiche curry foam. It was a creative flavor combination and most enjoyable! Note: the latest trend for serving Edamame, Japanese style soy beans, is to either grill or sauté the small bright green legumes. Chef Amar serves this appetizer grilled and tossed with Yuzu (Japanese citrus). The smoky grilled flavor off-sets the tartness of the citrus - they are both “finger licking” good and addicting!

Generally, I like to dine at a restaurant on a couple of occasions before reviewing the establishment but my maiden voyage to Broadway left me feeling a bit perplexed since I heard rave reviews about the Executive Chef. Truth-be-told, I had gone to Broadway several weeks after they had opened the doors and clearly that is not a fair review on my part…the restaurant was newly opened and had a few kinks to work out. Service was lagging terribly, hubby’s duck breast was over-cooked and my Jidori chicken was rather pedestrian in flavor.

Upon my return I enjoyed the “special of the evening”- Lamb Pork Belly; Chicken Liver Mousse; Roasted Bone Marrow with Anchovies and Panna Cotta dessert. Lamb pork belly is an unusual find on any OC restaurant menu. Chef Amar cooked the meat a perfect medium-rare leaving a sweet crisp outer belly and soft, moist inside. Delicious!

The beef marrow bone is split lengthwise in two, oven roasted and topped with several small bites of marinated white anchovy fillets. Bone marrow is pure fat and has a very “heavy” taste therefore the mild vinegar-tart flavor of the white anchovies was a perfect topping to the fatty bone marrow. Kudos Chef Amar!

I am one never to pass up dessert so I ordered the Panna Cotta with a large quenelle of berry sorbet, tender strawberry quarters (they appeared lightly poached) and tiny black currants. The pretty presentation was a welcomed sight for sore eyes. On this particular evening after a heavy meal of fatty roasted bone marrow and anchovies this dessert was light and refreshing and a treat.

Laguna Beach has become a foodie destination with many restaurants seemingly opening every month. My humble opinion…Chef Amar Santana and Broadway restaurant he oversees is destined to be one of the best local restaurants and a tough culinary competitor worthy of a visit!

Broadway by Amar Santana on Urbanspoon

Open daily for dinner 5:00 pm
Full Bar













































Monday, September 12, 2011

Chapter One: the modern local

As I veered off the 1st Street exit towards downtown Santa Ana, bittersweet memories flooded my brain. You see, it has been years since I have stepped foot into old “Santana” - the vicinity of the Civic Center area – where Mexican markets buzzed with loyal customers, neighborhood “eloteros” (corn cob vendors) meandered about selling fresh, roasted corn cobs slathered in mayo with dry hot spices and my abuelita’s home on 3rd and Baker streets where the aroma of freshly roasted tortillas permeated the breeze. Those were treacherous days when the local Calle 3rd Street gang bangers, like sentinels, packed heat and hung out at the corner park. Today is a different story. A fresh, revamped downtown Santa Ana highlights a wonderful artist’s community with small boutiques where peppy restaurants are sprinkled throughout the neighborhood.

Approximately six months ago, Chapter One: the modern local came to life and like the adjoining businesses also buzzes with loyal customers. The energy inside is intense. Hip patrons nibble on interesting food and sip creative cocktails while live tunes float through the air from the corner of the bar. I have dined at Chapter One on three occasions - with a concept based around food and the kitchen and a seasoned chef named “Oge”, I have yet to be disappointed. Each time I walk into the dining area past the shelves of library books, I expect to see Hemmingway sucking on a stogie while sipping his favorite booze – literary giant meet gastro pub!

The black bean soup was a mixture of al dente black beans and aromatic roasted sweet pineapple. The flavors were very rich, sweet and spicy at the same time and the consistency thick and chunky. The beans were slightly crunchy…some folks may prefer softer beans but I like my legumes slightly crunchy! My soup was topped with a fried plantain which had been sliced lengthwise and placed over the soup bowl creating an uncommon and creative presentation.

Stuffed squid, fare not normally offered in an American cuisine gastro pub, is usually served in Italian and Asian restaurants. That being said, I was curious about Chapter One’s “Stuft Squid”. Whole squid (sans tentacles, tube only) filled with sweet sundried tomatoes and salty Kalamata black olives. The calamari was tempura batter-fried, sliced into rings and served alongside a fresh tomato coulis. The rich tomato-olive filling held up well with the squid and had well balanced flavors but the accoutrement of tomato coulis was on the watery side and rather bland.

Sunrise in Jalisco was served in a martini glass with a crisp cucumber floater - was made with Russian Standard Vodka and Agave Underground Anejo blended with Rouge cherry liquor and muddled cucumber and simple syrup. Daily, the bartender fresh presses ginger root and diligently carbonates water to make fresh ginger beer for his Moscow Mule. This libation is served in a cold tin cup over special ice cubes which have a slow melt rate maintaining the smooth RS vodka flavor - my favorite cocktail from Chapter One!

Although I am not a vegetarian, I enjoy all foods herbivorous. Chapter One’s Eggplant and Portobello Mushroom Sandwich was light and refreshing - a hefty mound of tofu, eggplant ratatouille and balsamic marinated mushrooms aretopped with garlic tomato relish and piled in a sandwich roll. Another vegetarian dish was the panko crusted Potato Pear – mashed potatoes are molded into a pear shape and served atop mushroom Marsala sauce. Japanese style panko bread crumbs are light and flakey and as I bit through the crunchy exterior my teeth sank into a creamy mashed potato mound.

Desserts: A must try is the Milk & Cereal! Vanilla panna cotta, Kataifi (Middle Eastern shredded phyllo dough) and Cinnamon Toast Crunch are paired with peanut butter ice cream. Although the citrus chunks and sweet creamy panna cotta meritage seemed a little harsh on my palate, I would still toss my diet out the freakin’ window - that dessert put a Cheshire grin on my face. I closed my eyes, took a bite and the flavors took me back to pleasant childhood days when I was able to enjoy cereal for breakfast - guilt free!













Chapter One: The Modern Local on Urbanspoon
Some free parking & valet parking offered
Sunday brunch
Live music nightly

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Sabatino's - Lido Shipyard Sausage Company

With only a handful of weeks left before summer is officially over, I felt it imperative to showcase a backyard BBQ favorite …sausage. Tucked away in a Newport Beach shipyard is Sabatino’s – Lido Shipyard Sausage Company. Peter Sabatino’s privately owned food factory is located next door to his restaurant where the family’s special sausage recipe, dating back to Sicily in 1864, and other food items are made fresh daily. The tubby tubes of encased meat are mixed with imported Sicilian goat’s milk cheese, various herbs and come in mild or spicy flavor.

As I left the comfort of my home in Laguna I contemplated the many dishes I wanted to try. Hungry and salivating, I walked past the outdoor hostess stand and dining patio into a lobby and storefront where a large refrigerated window display full of seafood, large coils of homemade sausage, fresh bell peppers stuffed with rice and sausage and other food items for take home beckoned.

Several of the pleasant staff greeted me and I was immediately seated. The bus boy quickly served me a small basket of French baguette slices and a delicious cup of complimentary soup. During these tough economic times I was pleased to discover Sabatino’s giving away a free cup of soup with my meal. My clam chowder was excellent - made with thick bacon pieces, tender bites of clams, dices of firm potatoes and oyster crackers. I may have enjoyed the chowder too quickly as the bus boy noticed me hastily gobbling up my soup and kindly offered another free cup (yes, I accepted)!

Grilled calamari steak limone is served piccata style with garlic, capers and fresh herbs, surrounded by lemon wedges and roasted red peppers. I am a seriously tough critic of properly prepared calamari (over-cooked, tough and rubbery calamari sucks) and my squid steaks were well prepared with a good balance of salty capers off-setting the tart lemon juice.

I rarely eat sandwiches but had to try the sausage sandwich at Sabatino’s. Peter and C’est Si Bon Bakery in Newport Beach have teamed up to create special baguettes made without yeast and very low in gluten with the end result a light, less filling bread. My Sicilian “low-fat” sausage sandwich over-flowed with fresh green peppers, onions and was served with a side of marinara sauce and a mixed green salad. One bite of the glistening, moist sausage sandwich filled my mouth with herbaceous flavors and sweet-salty cheese. I was satiated!

For my last attempt at a food coma I ordered the Pizza Sabatino – sauce and cheese pizza. With the addition of mushrooms, black olives, sausage and green peppers and made with fresh pizza dough this thin crust pie was mediocre at best. I must admit, my heart’s desire was won over by the fresh sausage, not a pizza pie.

Desserts at Sabatino’s are made fresh daily and include the “best Tiramisu around”, New York style cheesecake, cannolis and “After Dark in a Blanket” - homemade crepe stuffed with vanilla bean ice cream served with zabione crème, hot fudge and fresh strawberry sauce. After tasting many savory dishes my palate lacked the desire for sweets – my belly was full therefore I passed on dessert. Albeit, the After Dark in a Blanket teases my senses and sounds tantalizingly tempting!

My primary goal in dining at Sabatino’s was to try the homemade cheesy sausage. Fellow foodies don’t be mistaken the restaurant offers many more Italian food items from pastas, poultry, veal and seafood to a vegetarian menu. Wine and beer are available and should you decide to bring your own wine, there’s a $22 corkage fee.

Note: After my solo lunch I purchased one pound each of mild and spicy sausage and looked forward to the sights and lingering cheesy smell of grilling the fat tubes at home. After several minutes of cast iron grilling, I turned the sausages to grill the other side and noticed some crispy-chewy cheese chunks had oozed out of the meat casings and sizzled on the hot grill. As the goat cheese caramelized and hardened, I quickly picked off the crispy cheese cracklings and popped them into my mouth. The taste combo of moist and lean flavored sausage and Sicilian goat cheese was delectable!

Sabatino's on Urbanspoon

Beer and Wine
Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner
Champagne brunch served Saturday & Sunday 8:30a.m. - 1:00p.m.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Starfish Asian Coastal Cuisine

Starfish Asian Coastal Cuisine

Upon entering Starfish - the latest venture for local Laguna Beach resident and business owner, Nancy Wilhelm - I zone out and escape from busy Pacific Coast Highway where the cacophony of street cars buzz in my brain and the dusty funk of engine exhaust wafts through my nostrils. As I’m escorted past the hostess cubicle to my table, I find myself engulfed in a warm Shangri la and instantly my perception shifts from frenzied to peaceful-exotic as I anticipate the upcoming continental feast.

For her encore Nancy has succeeded in creating another alluring dining establishment with Starfish Asian Coastal Cuisine. Le Cordon Bleu graduate Chef Jarvis Yuan - a native San Franciscan reared by Taiwanese parents - is credited for confidently expediting dishes with his talented kitchen staff. Having spent many days of his childhood hanging out in his family’s many restaurants, Chef Jarvis confidently transports flavors from Southeast Asia to south Laguna Beach.

The setting of avant garde Asian inspired décor: thick padded-jade colored banquettes, shiny black lacquer furniture and Asian antiques, rekindles my memory of the wonderful dining establishments I visited in Southeast Asia. For an instant I consider a surreptitious pinch to my arm. Am I merely just minutes away from my home? Immediately I notice the pretty emerald colored glass tiles glistening from the horseshoe shaped bar where attractive mixologists cater to thirsty and equally attractive bar patrons. I gently shake the marbles in my dome grounding myself back to reality. A little voice in my brain confirms that I am in Laguna Beach and advises me to sit back against the comfy banquette and enjoy the culinary adventure.

Ahi poke, Korean style tacos, Vietnamese pho, garlic noodles and whole Asian style fish are merely a sampling of the many dishes I have enjoyed at Starfish. And that does not include the fabulous cocktails and dessert. I’m not quite sure where to begin!

Sichuan Yu Sang small Japanese eggplant is slow braised to tender perfection with house made sambal – Asian spicy chili sauce. I could have devoured this whole side dish alone had I not been forced to share with my dining comrades. A slow braising method reveals the rich deep purple hue of the eggplant and the sweet-salty and spicy combo triggered my greedy craving for more!

Starfish poke - small chunks of yellow fin tuna, crunchy pine nuts, micro shiso and tobiko caviar - is tossed with a hint of truffle oil and served with a side of taro chips. Traditional sesame oil does not over power this dish and the woodsy truffle oil blended with aromatic tiny shiso leaves is a nice gourmet touch.

The highlight of my dining experience at Starfish was the “fish of the day.” My dining group and I decided on the wok braised method. After all, woks are essential cookware in an Asian kitchen – it would have been sacrilegious not to eat wok fried fish. Choy sum (inner core of bok choy) cabbage, sweet Thai basil, black bean sauce, bits of sweet garlic and bright red Thai chilis are generously ladled over a whole slightly-crispy fish. In an interesting, non-traditional presentation, the fish seemed to “stand on its own” as it was methodically placed in a sculptured u-shape form on the plate. One of the servers offered to “filet” the fish and, needless-to-say, the server could use a little more experience filleting whole fish. But the flavor was lovely and I would not hesitate to order this dish upon my next visit to Starfish.

My first experience with the garlic noodles left me feeling less than satisfied due to the oil which had coagulated at the roof of my palate. Alas, never give up…every restaurant deserves another chance. Upon my third trip to Starfish, I ordered the wild mushroom garlic noodles. Third time was a charm as these noodles were prepared well with a blend of three types of exotic mushrooms, sweet basil and delicate noodles. One taste confirmed the over- dressing of oil problem had been solved although my dining partner complained that the ratio of noodles to veggies seemed a bit out of balance – he would have liked more veggies in the over abundant noodle mound.

I would gladly visit Sarfish solely to drink the specialty cocktails. A groovy libation is the Citrus Brynner made with Hangar One Citron Vodka, elder flower liqueur, white wine, grapefruit bitters and lemongrass. As I sip my refreshing aperitif, I remind myself of the medicinal benefit of lemongrass being a gentle degestivo and I take root looking forward to my upcoming dessert.

Those in the know appreciate my love for all things coconut – especially coconut cuisine! Therefore, at the conclusion of my savory meal it was imperative that I had my very own order of coconut panna cotta. To my delight I was served an over-sized portion of Bavarian cream layered with essence of exotic passion fruit. Although the consistency was a bit gelatinous, the flavors and creativity of this dessert was wonderful. I closed my eyes and savored each layer separately. As I enjoyed each individual flavor again I was reminded that Nancy, along with Chef Jarvis, had succeeded in transporting me – even for a brief repast – through the tastes, sights and smells of Asia at Starfish. Bravo!

Starfish on Urbanspoon
Open Daily 4:00p.m.
Spirits, Beer & Wine

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

ALESSA – Laguna Beach

My motis operandi - dine at a restaurant on several occasions before critiquing the place. I broke my own rule regarding Alessa in Laguna Beach…it is worthy of a first time food critique. Besides, I have kvetched long enough about having to travel outside the perimeters of Laguna Beach to get consistent, well prepared Italian food - therefore, I gladly share my Alessa experience with all interested foodies.

Chef/Owner Alessandro Pirozzi commands a southern style Italian restaurant on Forest Avenue in the heart of downtown Laguna Beach (formerly the Pomodoro site). With locations in Huntington Beach and Newport Beach, the restaurant has been in operation since November last year. Walk past the dining patio with a pretty ceramic tile wall water fountain and you will find the warm glow of lantern light fixtures hanging from the ceiling and a wall montage of Pirozzi family photos creating an inviting environment. Should you decide to take in busy energy and witness the hustle-bustle of kitchen staff in action, belly up to the full bar, pull up a barstool and dine at the counter.

The prosciutto and mozzarella bar is stocked with some of the best burrata in the OC. High quality, pillowy chunks of Italian fresh milk mozzarella cheese were plated with roasted marinated baby artichoke hearts and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. Sprinkles of sea salt and spicy tendrils of arugula were blended in a delightful citrus flavored salad!

I expected traditional gnocchi (mini football shapes) with a rich potato flavor but instead received small gnocchi balls filled with pesto. Alessa’s gnocchi fritti are stuffed with rich-creamy pesto, the potato dumplings are gently fried and served with a small bowl of delicious pomodoro sauce for your dipping pleasure. The small fried balls, sprinkled with grated cheese and parsley, taste equally good sans the side of pomodoro.

Penne Norma combines smokey/sweet flavors of penne pasta cooked al dente then tossed in a tomato basil sauce with small pieces of sautéed eggplant and melted smoky mozzarella. I surprised myself for breaking my “no carbs after lunch” rule – the pasta dish was a mixture of well balanced flavors and cooked to perfection.

As for pizza, the Salame E Scamorza pizza was rather bland. I anticipated a more flavorful Napoli style pizza crust and have had better. Albeit, I will not rush out to Alessa for the pizza, I thoroughly enjoyed my Capesanti al Limone! Grilled herb-marinated huge diver scallops were served with roasted red bell pepper puree atop a mound of Meyer lemon risotto. The scallops were grilled and remained firm yet juicy and sweet.

Risotto is a difficult dish to prepare properly involving constant stirring to accomplish the end result – an al dente yet creamy smooth Arborio rice dish. Alessa’s risotto fell short of a perfect risotto. The flavor of the rice, although very good with a gentle essence of grilled Meyer lemon, was a slightly dry. Without a doubt, I would order this dish again in hopes of a different outcome - a perfect creamy consistency. Surely there are folks out there who would beg to differ with my culinary criticism of risotto – I merely base my opinion on a trip to Italy and my many experiences of eating my way through risotto dish after risotto dish prepared in the mother land.

The finishing touch was a cream filled pastry ring stuffed with chocolate chips and ricotta cheese. One bite and the Sicilian style crunchy fried cannoli with drizzled chocolate syrup melted in my mouth. After a meal of tasting many wonderful savory dishes, the sweet cannoli dessert was a perfect finale!

Cheers!





Alessa on Urbanspoon
www.cucinaalessa.com

Monday, June 13, 2011





BRODARD CHATEAU


A Bit of History
In the mid 70’s, General Nguyen Cao Ky of the South Vietnamese army fled communist controlled Vietnam and relocated to Orange County, California. Along with a “boat” load of refugees, General Cao Ky moved to the city of Westminster, opened up a liquor store and assisted in making OC home to one of the largest and most prominent Vietnamese communities in the west. The Vietnamese boat people colonized certain areas of Westminster and Garden Grove designating their little slice of the American dream the “Little Saigon” area of Orange County.

New Food Culture Comes to the OC
The Little Saigon area is home to hundreds of Vietnamese restaurants specializing in various foods from “pho” (beef noodle soup), Banh mi (baguette & pate sandwiches) to “Ca phe da” (iced coffee) houses. With culinary influences from France, China, Thailand, Cambodia and Malaysia, Vietnamese food remains very healthy, low in carbohydrates and fat, and light – all good reasons why Vietnamese food is one of my favorite foods in the world!

Brodard Chateau & Vietnamese Cuisine
In existence since 2006, Brodard Chateau, a two story restaurant owned and operated by the Dang family (Bamboo Bistro in Corona del Mar and Brodard in Westminster), offers traditional and Asian fusion cuisine from the Saigon, Hanoi and Hue regions of Vietnam. The restaurant has a well stocked bar, indoor staircase and a stylish Vietnamese setting with art deco ambiance.
I begin my repast with one of several Brodard Chateau specialty cocktails. David Xaygnavong, my gracious waiter and bartender mixed my favorite - the Lychee vodka martini. Shaken with lychee liquor, white cranberry juice, vodka and fresh lychee fruit this libation is light, sweet and crisp. Although I could have easily guzzled another, I decided one was my limit (after all, I was scheduled to host an evening soiree of ten and I thought it a grand idea to remain coherent and charming for my guests)!

My dining trips to Little Saigon eateries would not be the same without an order of Cuon Chay - freshly made Vietnamese spring rolls. Moist and chewy rice paper is filled with tender steamed shrimp, sliced avocado, bean sprouts, mint leaf, lettuce & thin strands of vermicelli. Delectable bobbins are tightly wrapped into neat rolls, sliced in half and served cold with a creamy peanut dipping sauce. I know how fresh the rolls were as I observed the kitchen staff carefully hand rolling and slicing my made to order rolls.

A common dish at many Asian fusion restaurants is the “salt and pepper” style seafood. Muc Rang Muoi are lightly breaded rings or strips of squid (similar to calamari Italian style) flash fried in a very hot wok together with sea salt, scallion slivers and fresh jalapenos. I squeezed a wedge of fresh lime on top of the calamari rings, popped a couple in my mouth and relished every morsel. The flavors of tangy lime juice, spicy fresh pepper slices and onion made a great pre-dinner appetizer!

My first course was set before me with sizzling sounds emanating through my ears alerting my brain. The precariously hot cast iron skillet full of blazing chunks of delicate sole filet and the essence of turmeric spice sautéed with caramelized onion slivers, fresh baby dill and garlic chips had me salivating. The aromas are slightly intoxicating (guys, it doesn’t take much to intoxicate me when food is involved). David delivered my plethora of accoutrements: a platter laced with fresh mint leafs, thinly sliced red onions, roasted peanuts, vermicelli noodles, slivers of fresh lemon grass stock and lemons wedges. Methodically, I make a “Vietnamese taco” with the seafood and accompanying goodies and drizzle a side of savory shrimp based dipping sauce over my taco. After one bite instantly I am in food heaven and speechless.

Pan seared Vietnamese rice flour crepes over-flow with bits of pork, chunks of shrimp, crisp bean sprouts, mushrooms and onions. Served with a bunch of crunchy Asian veggies (including lettuce and basil) and chili-lime fish sauce, these ingredients allow a diner to make a Vietnamese “lettuce wrap” according to their dietary desires.

Taro root, a starchy tuber vegetable, is often used in soups and desserts and is a very popular culinary staple in Asia. My preference is to expand my culinary horizons and step outside of the box, therefore, my food choices are diverse items not normally found on menus. Che Khoai Mon Nuoc Dua (say that fast 10x) is Brodard Chateau’s version of a sweet taro root dessert. The presentationand preparation for this confection was similar to a steamy bowl of cream of wheat (like my granny used to make). My dessert was served warm with a hefty spoonful of thin coconut sauce poured over the top. I was impressed and pleased with the simple yet creative concept for this particular dessert – it was not a typical, banal sweet course found on a menu.




I have travelled to Southeast Asia: Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand and thoroughly enjoyed the various foods from those regions (excluding the “baby frogs on a stick” at the open air market in Thailand). I delight in the knowledge that there are so many Asian restaurants to choose from - not far from the 405 freeway within 40 minutes of my home in South Orange County.

Cheers!


Brodard Chateau on Urbanspoon


Open Daily 10:30)
Beer, wine & cocktails served

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Laguna Beach Chef/Owner - Backed Into Corner To Defend Championship Title!

The second OC Sunday Night Chef Fights found Laguna Beach Chef Lindsay of Nirvana Grille sans the championship title of “Best Chef in the OC”. Despite a very close scoring decision, Chef Lindsay yielded her championship status to new champion Chef/Owner Nicola Bellazzi of Enne Cucina Italiana in San Clemente.

In front of an anxious sold out crowd of 65 OC foodies, both chefs and culinary teams worked quickly to accomplish the goal of assembling, plating and serving 3-4 dishes incorporating the main ingredients: sweet potato, ham, cauliflower with the secret ingredient coconut. Note: the hidden item is revealed to the chefs 48 hours prior to competition!

Chef Nico, first to take the stage, did a great job of utilizing all ingredients in his four dishes. First course presented was a cauliflower & sweet potato zuppa with crispy prosciutto bits & shaved coconut. Although the soup had great flavor and was seasoned well, I found the consistency of the soup thin and runny.

A coincidence? Chef Lindsay’s first course was also a cream of cauliflower soup blended with pancetta and cauliflowerettes. A perfect, creamy consistency and lovely presentation using pretty swirls of crème fraiche does not account for flavor – my dining companions and I agreed the soup lacked in taste. Second course presented by Chef Nick was penne pasta with prosciutto, arugula, coconut cream and truffle oil. The vibrant arugula leafs made a colorful presentation with a hint of truffle oil offsetting the rich coco cream and salty Italian ham. And leave it to a classically trained Italian chef to cook perfect al dente pasta. Kudos Chef Nico. Although pasta is not on my gluten-free diet, I savored every morsel and wanted more!

Chef Nico served an entre of white meat chicken tender wrapped in prosciutto which had been cooked in coconut milk then topped with cauliflower and served over sweet mashed potato, scented with gorgonzola cheese and coconut bits. One taste and I was baffled – this dish was pedestrian and left me unimpressed. I had higher expectations from a well-trained chef/owner. Chef Nico had done a great job with his prior dishes blending all the flavors together but this dish was trite and lacked the flavor I had expected.

Slow braised chicken was Chef Lindsay’s entree for the evening. Using various exotic Indian spices including curry with coconut, dark meat was cooked for several hours and served with a beurre blanc sauce then plated over a bed of coconut-cilantro rice. Albeit my rice had a mushy consistency, accolades to Chef Lindsay for her creativity, appearance and nice flavor combos. Chef Lindsay did a fine job with regards to the combination of ingredients!

After plenty of savory small plates I was ready for dessert. Both desserts lacked in creativity. With so many desserts to create incorporating sweet potato, coconut, cauliflower and ham, why settle for a traditional crème brulee or standard custard? Chef Lindsay’s sweet potato custard with caramel sauce had well balanced flavors and was not too sweet but was runny in consistency. In fact so runny, I was able to pour some custard out onto my dinner plate – not a good example of properly cooked custard. Consistency was not an issue for Chef Nico’s sweet potato and coconut brulee but the confection lacked the traditional crispy-thin caramelized topping.

When the time clock stopped and the final scores tallied, the breakdown was: Creativity – Chef Nick: 284, Smith-Rosales: 258; Appearance –Chef Lindsay: 279, Chef Nick 263; and Taste: Chef Nick: 285, Chef Lindsay, 255. After an intense evening, the winner by a ‘razor thin split decision’ was Chef Nick.

Please come out to support our local chefs when Chef Nick returns to defend his title in the next Orange County Sunday Night Chef Fight competing against Challenger Chef James Harris, Executive Chef of the Royal Hawaiian in Laguna Beach on Sunday, August 21st at the Standards of Excellence showroom in Huntington Beach.

Cheers!

Patty Pinto
pgpinto@cox.net