Chapter One: the modern local

As I veered off the 1st Street exit towards downtown Santa Ana, bittersweet memories flooded my brain. You see, it has been years since I have stepped foot into old “Santana” - the vicinity of the Civic Center area – where Mexican markets buzzed with loyal customers, neighborhood “eloteros” (corn cob vendors) meandered about selling fresh, roasted corn cobs slathered in mayo with dry hot spices and my abuelita’s home on 3rd and Baker streets where the aroma of freshly roasted tortillas permeated the breeze. Those were treacherous days when the local Calle 3rd Street gang bangers, like sentinels, packed heat and hung out at the corner park. Today is a different story. A fresh, revamped downtown Santa Ana highlights a wonderful artist’s community with small boutiques where peppy restaurants are sprinkled throughout the neighborhood.

Approximately six months ago, Chapter One: the modern local came to life and like the adjoining businesses also buzzes with loyal customers. The energy inside is intense. Hip patrons nibble on interesting food and sip creative cocktails while live tunes float through the air from the corner of the bar. I have dined at Chapter One on three occasions - with a concept based around food and the kitchen and a seasoned chef named “Oge”, I have yet to be disappointed. Each time I walk into the dining area past the shelves of library books, I expect to see Hemmingway sucking on a stogie while sipping his favorite booze – literary giant meet gastro pub!

The black bean soup was a mixture of al dente black beans and aromatic roasted sweet pineapple. The flavors were very rich, sweet and spicy at the same time and the consistency thick and chunky. The beans were slightly crunchy…some folks may prefer softer beans but I like my legumes slightly crunchy! My soup was topped with a fried plantain which had been sliced lengthwise and placed over the soup bowl creating an uncommon and creative presentation.

Stuffed squid, fare not normally offered in an American cuisine gastro pub, is usually served in Italian and Asian restaurants. That being said, I was curious about Chapter One’s “Stuft Squid”. Whole squid (sans tentacles, tube only) filled with sweet sundried tomatoes and salty Kalamata black olives. The calamari was tempura batter-fried, sliced into rings and served alongside a fresh tomato coulis. The rich tomato-olive filling held up well with the squid and had well balanced flavors but the accoutrement of tomato coulis was on the watery side and rather bland.

Sunrise in Jalisco was served in a martini glass with a crisp cucumber floater - was made with Russian Standard Vodka and Agave Underground Anejo blended with Rouge cherry liquor and muddled cucumber and simple syrup. Daily, the bartender fresh presses ginger root and diligently carbonates water to make fresh ginger beer for his Moscow Mule. This libation is served in a cold tin cup over special ice cubes which have a slow melt rate maintaining the smooth RS vodka flavor - my favorite cocktail from Chapter One!

Although I am not a vegetarian, I enjoy all foods herbivorous. Chapter One’s Eggplant and Portobello Mushroom Sandwich was light and refreshing - a hefty mound of tofu, eggplant ratatouille and balsamic marinated mushrooms aretopped with garlic tomato relish and piled in a sandwich roll. Another vegetarian dish was the panko crusted Potato Pear – mashed potatoes are molded into a pear shape and served atop mushroom Marsala sauce. Japanese style panko bread crumbs are light and flakey and as I bit through the crunchy exterior my teeth sank into a creamy mashed potato mound.

Desserts: A must try is the Milk & Cereal! Vanilla panna cotta, Kataifi (Middle Eastern shredded phyllo dough) and Cinnamon Toast Crunch are paired with peanut butter ice cream. Although the citrus chunks and sweet creamy panna cotta meritage seemed a little harsh on my palate, I would still toss my diet out the freakin’ window - that dessert put a Cheshire grin on my face. I closed my eyes, took a bite and the flavors took me back to pleasant childhood days when I was able to enjoy cereal for breakfast - guilt free!

Some free parking & valet parking offered
Sunday brunch
Live music nightly

Sabatino's - Lido Shipyard Sausage Company

With only a handful of weeks left before summer is officially over, I felt it imperative to showcase a backyard BBQ favorite …sausage. Tucked away in a Newport Beach shipyard is Sabatino’s – Lido Shipyard Sausage Company. Peter Sabatino’s privately owned food factory is located next door to his restaurant where the family’s special sausage recipe, dating back to Sicily in 1864, and other food items are made fresh daily. The tubby tubes of encased meat are mixed with imported Sicilian goat’s milk cheese, various herbs and come in mild or spicy flavor.

As I left the comfort of my home in Laguna I contemplated the many dishes I wanted to try. Hungry and salivating, I walked past the outdoor hostess stand and dining patio into a lobby and storefront where a large refrigerated window display full of seafood, large coils of homemade sausage, fresh bell peppers stuffed with rice and sausage and other food items for take home beckoned.

Several of the pleasant staff greeted me and I was immediately seated. The bus boy quickly served me a small basket of French baguette slices and a delicious cup of complimentary soup. During these tough economic times I was pleased to discover Sabatino’s giving away a free cup of soup with my meal. My clam chowder was excellent - made with thick bacon pieces, tender bites of clams, dices of firm potatoes and oyster crackers. I may have enjoyed the chowder too quickly as the bus boy noticed me hastily gobbling up my soup and kindly offered another free cup (yes, I accepted)!

Grilled calamari steak limone is served piccata style with garlic, capers and fresh herbs, surrounded by lemon wedges and roasted red peppers. I am a seriously tough critic of properly prepared calamari (over-cooked, tough and rubbery calamari sucks) and my squid steaks were well prepared with a good balance of salty capers off-setting the tart lemon juice.

I rarely eat sandwiches but had to try the sausage sandwich at Sabatino’s. Peter and C’est Si Bon Bakery in Newport Beach have teamed up to create special baguettes made without yeast and very low in gluten with the end result a light, less filling bread. My Sicilian “low-fat” sausage sandwich over-flowed with fresh green peppers, onions and was served with a side of marinara sauce and a mixed green salad. One bite of the glistening, moist sausage sandwich filled my mouth with herbaceous flavors and sweet-salty cheese. I was satiated!

For my last attempt at a food coma I ordered the Pizza Sabatino – sauce and cheese pizza. With the addition of mushrooms, black olives, sausage and green peppers and made with fresh pizza dough this thin crust pie was mediocre at best. I must admit, my heart’s desire was won over by the fresh sausage, not a pizza pie.

Desserts at Sabatino’s are made fresh daily and include the “best Tiramisu around”, New York style cheesecake, cannolis and “After Dark in a Blanket” - homemade crepe stuffed with vanilla bean ice cream served with zabione crème, hot fudge and fresh strawberry sauce. After tasting many savory dishes my palate lacked the desire for sweets – my belly was full therefore I passed on dessert. Albeit, the After Dark in a Blanket teases my senses and sounds tantalizingly tempting!

My primary goal in dining at Sabatino’s was to try the homemade cheesy sausage. Fellow foodies don’t be mistaken the restaurant offers many more Italian food items from pastas, poultry, veal and seafood to a vegetarian menu. Wine and beer are available and should you decide to bring your own wine, there’s a $22 corkage fee.

Note: After my solo lunch I purchased one pound each of mild and spicy sausage and looked forward to the sights and lingering cheesy smell of grilling the fat tubes at home. After several minutes of cast iron grilling, I turned the sausages to grill the other side and noticed some crispy-chewy cheese chunks had oozed out of the meat casings and sizzled on the hot grill. As the goat cheese caramelized and hardened, I quickly picked off the crispy cheese cracklings and popped them into my mouth. The taste combo of moist and lean flavored sausage and Sicilian goat cheese was delectable!



Beer and Wine
Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner
Champagne brunch served Saturday & Sunday 8:30a.m. - 1:00p.m.